1. Calculator

The first thing you should do is make your upgrades since that will change the properties of your cars.

Once you have done that step let’s get started. So first step in your tuning is to create that initial balance. So you start with what you know. That is your car weight and your front weight distribution. When you have gathered that information head over to the calculator.

Once in the calculator you first add the numbers you know about your car. Next piece of information is adding your choice of downforce. What’s optimal is dependent on the driver’s preference. But try something between 80-120LB as a start and a higher value for R1 type car. Next is filling in your choice for roll bar. A good idea here is to stay within 15 - 25ARB. For smoother tracks use something closer to 20ARB and up. For bumpy tracks use something a little softer like 15ARB.

With this it’s time to hit the GO button and you will have settings for a balanced car as a starting point.

2. Tires

Next step is to hit the tracks to see how it performs and make those adjustments to get that perfect car.

One of the most important if not THE most important thing to get right is the tires. Something most people overlook. Your goal is to make all four tires hug the track as much as possible to get the best traction possible and how efficient that is is very much affected by tire temperature and the contact patch area. This is determined by tire pressure & weight transfer in which we balance through suspension, anti-roll bar stiffness etc.

First you need to do a few laps on the tracks to get the heat up. Now check out the telemetry to look at some data. Two things that are important to look at. First lets check so your contact patches are evenly touching the tracks. You can see that by checking what areas of the tires are getting heated. The temperature should be evenly spread throughout the entire contact patch. If only the middle part of the contact patch gets heated, chances are your tire pressure is too high. If heated only on the edges and cooler on the middle tire pressure are most likely to low. If only the inside of the tire is getting heated you have too much negative camber. Outside tire heated and you have too much positive camber. A few degrees of negative camber is often set, but no more than 3 degrees or you risk reduction in performance (braking, acceleration, top speed etc.).

tireContact tireCamber

2.1 Wheel alignment

So now you should have your camber so you have maximum contact patch touching the road. Next is to set the toe-in/out. tireToeIn

This is more about what you want your handling to be. Lets start with the front wheels. Toe-in will result in stability on straight lines and Toe-out will make it better for corner-in turns. For the rear wheels toe-in is recommended as it creates stability when accelerating out from a corner or straight line speed. Be careful with this though. Only a small degree amount should be tweaked (this setup is recommended for RWD).

3. Differential

Differential is when the torque shifts on drive wheels so the wheels rotate at different speeds during a corner. This is to reduce drag when cornering.

4. Tweaks and polish.

  • Springs

    The springs main job is to keep your tire’s on the track as much as possible. If they are too soft your car might bounce around as soon as you hit a bump and. Too stiff and your tires might lose contact with the surface of the track as soon you hit a bump. Tweak the stiffness of the springs depending on how the car behave as written.

  • Anti-Roll bars

    If you find the car oversteering a lot you probably need to soften up your rear anti-roll bar and stiffen the front bar. If it understeers soften up the front bar and stiffen rear.

  • Dampers

    Dampers (also known as shockers) are defined with bump (when the wheels contract) and rebound (when the wheels extract to its original state). These help with weight transfer and when weight has been transferred tweaking this makes little impact. Tweak this when being close to final results and want to push that little extra in handling. If during acceleration you get a lot of wheel spin you can try and increase the rear bump stiffness as well as stiffen the front rebound. One way to know how to tweak dampers is to look where you are losing traction during heavy load (acceleration, braking or cornering etc.). If it means that your tires simply needs more force applied to them then increase the stiffness on that bump and increase rebound stiffness on the opposite side. But if that doesn’t work it could also mean that the load is too heavy on those tires and it’s having the opposite effect like the tires are getting overworked. Then it could be a good idea to try and soften the bump etc.

Thanks for reading! Hope this guide brings you the perfect car tailored for your driving style. This guide will be updated as we get more knowledge and feedback on the subject matter.

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